Event Format & Rules

National Indoor Bouldering Series 2017

NEW IN 2017: RULE UPDATES, ROCKTOPIA EVENT

We did a survey at the end of last year, and we had great feedback from you – we’re now working with the gyms and organisers to confirm which changes to make. Final rules will be confirmed soon – keep posted.

2017 Provisional Info – will be confirmed soon:

Start and Finish Times

  • Competitors can choose from one of two main rounds:
  • 2:30pm – 4:30pm – registration opens 2:00pm, or
  • 5:00pm – 7:00pm – registration opens 4:30pm
  • Finals will be at approximately 7:30pm for the top 3 female and top 3 male entrants over both rounds.
  • You can turn up on the day, or pre-register for the event to reserve your spot at the time you want (and enter the bonus prize draw)

Registration Fees

  • $10 for NZAC members with ID
  • $20 for everyone else
  • Everyone counts in Opens category
  • Join the U18 (born 1999 or later) or Masters (1981 or earlier) at no extra cost.
  • The entry fee can be paid at the gym on the day or up to a month before the event if you want to avoid the queues.
  • Remember you can pre-register your details any time by selecting the event in the menu above.

Rules

NZAC NATIONAL INDOOR BOULDERING SERIES RULES 2016


The NiBS is a fun, all-abilities series. People keep their own score, so honesty is important in keeping the event fun. The following rules are made so everyone is playing the same game. If you are not sure about anything, ask the event co-ordinator!

 

CATEGORIES
Three entrant categories will exist at each competition:

Open Category
Male and Female categories open to any competitor. Open competitors can also be ranked in the U18 or Masters categories at no additional cost. The top three ranked Male and Females will go to the finals.

U18 Category
Male and Female categories open to any competitor who is born in 1999 or after.

Masters Category
Unisex category, open to any competitor who is born in 1981 or before.

FORMAT

Choose to start your main round at 2:30pm or 5:00pm

2:00pm                 Main Round 1 registration opens
2:30pm                 Main Round 1 starts
4:30pm                 Main Round 1 ends, Main Round 2 registration opens
5:00pm                 Main Round 2 starts
7:00pm                 Main Round 2 ends
7:30pm                 Finals start, spot prizes

9:00pm                 Finals completed, prizegiving

Late registrations will be taken after the competition briefing with no extra time allowed.

The top three results in all 5 categories will be read out at the end of each event, and the series trophies will be awarded at the end of the final round.

 

MAIN ROUNDS


Sectioning the area:
The wall will be split into between 6 and 15 sections, divided vertically by black tape.

Setting the problems: Each section will have five problems of varying difficulty, marked out with coloured tags. The grade system is like so:

Colour

Grade

Points

Green

12-16 (or ‘VE’)

5

Yellow

17-19 (or ‘VM’)

6

Orange

V0 – V3

7

Red

V4 – V6

8

Black

V7 – Very Hard

10

Grades are indications only.

Every handhold and foothold that you can use for a specific problem must have one tag of that colour pointing to it except for:

  • If there are two starting handholds, each will have two tags (in a ‘v’)
  • If there is one starting handhold, it will have three tags
  • If it is a finishing hold, it will have two tags (in a ‘v’)
  • It is a usable part of the wall (see below)
  • It is a screw-on foothold (see below)

Usable parts of the wall:

Any part of the climbing wall can be used unless it is:

  • Considered “structural” (e.g. the tops, sides of the wall, exposed beams)
  • In another section, as marked with black cloth tape.
  • Marked out of bounds with black cloth tape.
  • Any areas marked out of bounds should be described to competitors before the event starts.
  • Putting weight on the black tape or on an area outside the section will result in an incomplete attempt.

 

 Screw-on holds:

Any hold that is attached to the wall by exclusively by screws (as opposed to bolts) can be used on any problem in that section, for feet only. If a screw-on hold can be used for a handhold, it must have a tag specific to the problem. Large holds or volumes attached with screws may be marked as not included in a description on next to the hold if needed.

 

Scoring Points:

A competitor that takes their weight off the wall with their hands on the designated start holds, and then progresses to the finishing hold and controls it with both hands for at least 2 seconds, without touching the ground, out of bounds areas or holds not allowed, will be awarded the points. Each problem can be scored only once.

Main Round Score

At the end of the 2-hour main round, each competitor tallies up their 7 highest individual scores. The total is their overall score. If there is a tie, competitors will be ranked by the number of black problems, then the number of red problem etc completed if necessary to split the top three in each category. All problems completed should be marked on the scoresheet.

Mats:

All the problems will be protected by mats as deemed safe by the host gym. On all problems the lowest part of the climber must not exceed three metres.

 

FINAL ROUND

 

The top three ranked Open Men’s and Open Women’s competitors after the main rounds will progress to the final round. If there are time constraints, less or more finalists may be included at the discretion of the Head Judge.

There will be two final sections with two problems on each, one for the Open Men’s and one for the Open Women’s. These are marked with starting and finishing holds as per the main round, except all usable holds (including screw-ons) will be marked. The Head Judge will define the colour of tags for these problems.

 

Each finalist will have 4 minutes to try each problem. They can have as many attempts as they want, but their current attempt is terminated at the 4 minute mark.

 

Each of the four problems will be drawn on a routemap and verified by the Head Routesetter. Each useable handhold will be given a number score, starting at 1, reflecting the progression of the problem. The score on each attempt on the boulder problem is to be recorded. The resulting score for each problem will be the value of the highest hold controlled in the fewest attempts. If the final hold is controlled with two hands for at least two seconds, the score will be 100.

 

The combined score is the total values of the two problems and the combined number of attempts for the two scores.

 

Any changes from these rules will be at the discretion of the Head Judge.

 

Example:

 

Competitor A

Problem 1

Attempt

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Score

Points

3

4

3

7

Top

100/5

Problem 2

Attempt

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Score

Points

7

6

5

8

8/4

 

Competitor A’s score in the finals would be 108 in 9 attempts. This would beat a score of 107 in 8 attempts but would be beaten by 108 in 8 attempts.

 

SERIES POINTS

Series points will be allocated in all categories. The person with the highest score, based on their placing over their best 3 competitions, will be the overall series winner. Ties for all places will be allowed in each competition, including 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Points will be awarded for ties taking the average points for all placings.

For example a tie for 1st will score 93 points (100+86) / 2

The overall series winner will be decided at the conclusion of event 4, and the series trophies awarded. If a tie exists for 1st place after this competition there will be a count back as per IFSC rules, with the highest point score and number of competitors per event used to split the competitors.

e.g. Three competitors have a series points score of 100.

Person A came first in one event, with an attendance of 100 people.

Person B came first in one event, with an attendance of 80 people.

Person C came 6th in two events.

The series rankings would be 1st A, 2nd B and 3rd C

Place

Points

1

100

2

86

3

74

4

64

5

56

6

50

7

44

8

40

9

36

10

32

11

30

12

28

13

26

14

24

15

22

16

20

17

19

18

18

19

17

20

16

21

15

22

14

23

13

24

12

25

11

26

10

27

9

28

8

29

7

30

6

31

5

32

4

33

3

34

2

35

1

 


Note: Series points and overall placing will be posted on the NiBS results page after each competition.