Event Format & Rules

National Indoor Bouldering Series 2021

2021 Rule Changes

  • In line with international competitions, only those who are 16 or older at the end of the calendar year will now be eligible to compete in the Opens categories and qualify for the finals.
  • We are trialling out a youth-only first main round at the Christchurch event
  • There will now be 5 Open Female and 5 Open Male finalists in each round

Start and Finish Times

    • Competitors can choose from one of three main rounds:
    • 12:00pm – 2:00pm – registration opens 11:30am, or
    • 2:30pm – 4:30pm – registration opens 2:00pm, or
    • 5:00pm – 7:00pm – registration opens 4:30pm
    • Finals will be at approximately 7:30pm for the top 5 female and top 5 male entrants over both rounds.
  •  
    • Uprising Christchurch will trial a 9:30-11:30am round open only to U12, U14, U16, U18 competitors and their parents/caregivers if they wish to climb with them.
    • U18s can opt for any of the other main rounds if they wish as they are eligible for the Opens
  • You can turn up on the day, or pre-register for the event to reserve your spot at the time you want (and enter the bonus prize draw)

Registration Fees

    • $15 for NZAC members with ID
    • $25 for everyone else
    • The entry fee can be paid at the gym on the day or up to a month before the event if you want to avoid the queues.

Categories

    • Anyone between the ages of 19 and 34 at 31 December of the current year will be in the Open categories
    • Those 16 or 17 at 31 December will count in the U18 and Open categories
    • Those 14 or 15 at 31 December will count in the U16 categories
    • Those 12 or 13 at 31 December will count in the U14 categories
    • Those under the age of 12 at 31 December will count in the U12 categories
    • Those between the ages of 35 and 44 at 31 December will count in the Masters and Open categories
    • Those 45 or older at 31 December will count in the Veterans and Open categories
    • Remember you can pre-register your details any time by selecting the event in the menu above.

Rules

NZAC NATIONAL INDOOR BOULDERING SERIES RULES 2021

The NiBS is a fun, all-abilities series. People keep their own score, so honesty is important in keeping the event fun. The following rules are made so everyone is playing the same game. If you are not sure about anything, ask the event co-ordinator!

FORMAT

Choose to start your main round at 12:00pm, 2:30pm or 5:00pm

11:30am               Main Round 1 registration opens
12:00pm               Main Round 1 starts
2:00pm                  Main Round 1 ends, Main Round 2 registration opens
2:30pm                 Main Round 2 starts
4:30pm                 Main Round 2 ends, Main Round 3 registration opens
5:00pm                 Main Round 3 starts
7:00pm                 Main Round 3 ends
7:30pm                 Finals start, spot prizes

9:00pm                 Finals completed, prizegiving

If the round is not full, late registrations will be taken after the competition briefing with no extra time allowed.

The top three results in all 8 categories will be read out at the end of each event, and the series trophies will be awarded at the end of the final round.

MAIN ROUNDS


Sectioning the area:
The wall will be split into between 6 and 15 sections, divided vertically by black tape.

Setting the problems: Each section will have five problems of varying difficulty, marked out with coloured tags. The grade system is like so:

Colour

Grade

Points

Green

12-16 (or ‘VE’)

5

Yellow

17-19 (or ‘VM’)

6

Orange

V0 – V3

7

Red

V4 – V6

8

Black

V7 – Very Hard

10

Grades are indications only.

Every handhold and foothold that you can use for a specific problem must have one tag of that colour pointing to it except for:

    • If there are two starting handholds, each will have two tags (in a ‘v’)
    • If there is one starting handhold, it will have three tags
    • If it is a finishing hold, it will have two tags (in a ‘v’)
    • It is a usable part of the wall (see below)

Usable parts of the wall:

Any part of the climbing wall can be used unless it is:

    • Considered “structural” (e.g. the tops, sides of the wall, exposed beams)
    • In another section, as marked with black cloth tape.
    • Marked out of bounds with black cloth tape.
    • Any areas marked out of bounds should be described to competitors before the event starts.
  • Putting weight on the black tape or on an area outside the section will result in an incomplete attempt.

 Scoring Points:

A competitor that takes their weight off the wall in control with their hands on the designated start holds, and then progresses to the finishing hold and controls it with both hands for at least 2 seconds, without touching the ground, out of bounds areas or holds not allowed, will be awarded the points. Each problem can be scored only once.

Main Round Score

At the end of the 2-hour main round, each competitor tallies up their 7 highest individual scores. The total is their overall score. If there is a tie, competitors will be ranked by the number of black problems, then the number of red problem etc completed if necessary to split the top three in each category. All problems completed should be marked on the scoresheet.

Mats:

All the problems will be protected by mats as deemed safe by the host gym. On all problems the lowest part of the climber must not exceed three metres.

FINAL ROUND 

The top five ranked Open Men’s and Open Women’s competitors after the main rounds will progress to the final round. If there are time constraints, less or more finalists may be included at the discretion of the Head Judge.

There will be three final sections with two problems on each, one for the Open Men’s and one for the Open Women’s. These are marked with starting and finishing holds as per the main round, except all usable holds (including screw-ons) will be marked. The Head Judge will define the colour of tags for these problems.

Each finalist will have 4 minutes to try each problem. They can have as many attempts as they want, but their current attempt is terminated at the 4 minute mark.

Each of the six problems will be drawn on a routemap and verified by the Head Routesetter. Each useable handhold will be given a number score, starting at 1, reflecting the progression of the problem. The score on each attempt on the boulder problem is to be recorded. The resulting score for each problem will be the value of the highest hold controlled in the fewest attempts. If the final hold is controlled with two hands for at least two seconds, the score will be 100.

If the hold is “Used” as per the IFSC definition below, they will score an additional 0.1 points.

e.g. Controlled hold 10, score = 10.0, Used hold 10, score = 10.1

“Use means, for the purposes of judging and scoring, that a competitor has made use of some
object/structure to:
(a) effect a progressive movement of their centre of mass or hips; and
(b) effect a movement of either or both hands toward:
(1) the next sequential handhold along the line of progression; or
(2) any other handhold further along the line of progression which has been successfully
Controlled by another competitor from the same handhold,
and the terms “Used”, “Uses” and “Using” will be interpreted in this context.”

 

The combined score is the total values of the three problems and the combined number of attempts for the three scores.

 

Any changes from these rules will be at the discretion of the Head Judge.

 

Example:

 

Competitor A

  Attempt 1 2 3 4 5 6 Score
Problem 1 Points 3 4.1 3 7.1 Top   100 in 5
Problem 2 Points 6 6 2 6.1 2 3 6.1 in 4
Problem 3 Points Top           100 in 1

 

Competitor A’s score in the finals would be 206.1 in 10 attempts. This would beat a score of 206 in 8 attempts but would be beaten by 206.1 in 8 attempts.

 

SERIES POINTS

Series points will be allocated in all categories. The person with the highest score, based on their placing over their best 3 competitions, will be the overall series winner. Ties for all places will be allowed in each competition, including 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Points will be awarded for ties taking the average points for all placings.

For example a tie for 1st will score 93 points (100+86) / 2

The overall series winner will be decided at the conclusion of event 4, and the series trophies awarded. If a tie exists for 1st place after this competition there will be a count back as per IFSC rules, with the highest point score and number of competitors per event used to split the competitors.

e.g. Three competitors have a series points score of 100.

Person A came first in one event, with an attendance of 100 people.

Person B came first in one event, with an attendance of 80 people.

Person C came 6th in two events.

The series rankings would be 1st A, 2nd B and 3rd C

Place

Points

1

100

2

86

3

74

4

64

5

56

6

50

7

44

8

40

9

36

10

32

11

30

12

28

13

26

14

24

15

22

16

20

17

19

18

18

19

17

20

16

21

15

22

14

23

13

24

12

25

11

26

10

27

9

28

8

29

7

30

6

31

5

32

4

33

3

34

2

35

1

 


Note: Series points and overall placing will be posted on the NiBS results page after each competition.