National Indoor Bouldering Series 2019

2019 Rule Changes Overview

• Finals are now 3 problems each for Women’s & Men’s – there will still be 3 finalists
• Screw-ons being in for footholds on all problems rule has been scrapped
• Using a hold in the finals for progression scores an extra 0.1 points (actually got around to adding this to the rules page even though we’ve been doing it for two years)
• High fives for routesetters and event organisers are now mandatory

Start and Finish Times

• • Competitors can choose from one of two main rounds:

• • 2:30pm – 4:30pm – registration opens 2:00pm, or

• • 5:00pm – 7:00pm – registration opens 4:30pm

• • Third option for Wellington only: 12:00pm – 2:00pm – registration opens 11:30am

• • Finals will be at approximately 7:30pm for the top 3 female and top 3 male entrants over both rounds.

• You can turn up on the day, or pre-register for the event to reserve your spot at the time you want (and enter the bonus prize draw)

Registration Fees

• • $10 for NZAC members with ID

• • $20 for everyone else
  • The entry fee can be paid at the gym on the day or up to a month before the event if you want to avoid the queues.

• • Everyone counts in Opens category

• • Those under the age of 18 at 31 December will count in the U18 and Open categories

• • Those under the age of 16 at 31 December will count in the U16, U18 and Open categories

• • Those 35 or older at 31 December will count in the U16, U18 and Open categories

 

• Remember you can pre-register your details any time by selecting the event in the menu above.

Rules

NZAC NATIONAL INDOOR BOULDERING SERIES RULES 2019

The NiBS is a fun, all-abilities series. People keep their own score, so honesty is important in keeping the event fun. The following rules are made so everyone is playing the same game. If you are not sure about anything, ask the event co-ordinator!

 

CATEGORIES
Three entrant categories will exist at each competition:

Open Category
Open Male and Female categories are open to any competitor. Open competitors are also ranked in the U16, U18 or Masters categories at no additional cost. The top three ranked Open Male and Females will go to the finals.

U16 Category
Male and Female categories open to any competitor who is born in 2004 or later.

U18 Category
Male and Female categories open to any competitor who is born in 2002 or later.

Masters Category

Male and Female categories open to any competitor who is born in 1984 or before.

FORMAT

Choose to start your main round at 2:30pm or 5:00pm

2:00pm                 Main Round 1 registration opens
2:30pm                 Main Round 1 starts
4:30pm                 Main Round 1 ends, Main Round 2 registration opens
5:00pm                 Main Round 2 starts
7:00pm                 Main Round 2 ends
7:30pm                 Finals start, spot prizes
9:30pm                 Finals completed, prizegiving

Late registrations will be taken after the competition briefing with no extra time allowed.

The top three results in all 8 categories will be read out at the end of each event, and the series trophies will be awarded at the end of the final round.

 

MAIN ROUNDS

Sectioning the area: The wall will be split into between 6 and 15 sections, divided vertically by black tape.

Setting the problems: Each section will have five problems of varying difficulty, marked out with coloured tags. The grade system is like so:

Colour	Grade	Points
Green	12-16 (or ‘VE’)	5
Yellow	17-19 (or ‘VM’)	6
Orange	V0 – V3	7
Red	V4 – V6	8
Black	V7 – Very Hard	10

Grades are indications only.

Every handhold and foothold that you can use for a specific problem must have one tag of that colour pointing to it except for:

• • If there are two starting handholds, each will have two tags (in a ‘v’)

• • If there is one starting handhold, it will have three tags

• • If it is a finishing hold, it will have two tags (in a ‘v’)

• • It is a usable part of the wall (see below)
    

Usable parts of the wall:

Any part of the climbing wall can be used unless it is:

• • Considered “structural” (e.g. the tops, sides of the wall, exposed beams)

• • In another section, as marked with black cloth tape.

• • Marked out of bounds with black cloth tape.

• • Any areas marked out of bounds should be described to competitors before the event starts.

 

• Putting weight on the black tape or on an area outside the section will result in an incomplete attempt.

 

 Screw-on holds:  As of 2019 the rule below no longer applies.

Any hold that is attached to the wall by exclusively by screws (as opposed to bolts) can be used on any problem in that section, for feet only. If a screw-on hold can be used for a handhold, it must have a tag specific to the problem. Large holds or volumes attached with screws may be marked as not included in a description on next to the hold if needed.

 

Scoring Points:

A competitor that takes their weight off the wall with their hands on the designated start holds, and then progresses to the finishing hold and controls it with both hands for at least 2 seconds, without touching the ground, out of bounds areas or holds not allowed, will be awarded the points. Each problem can be scored only once.

Main Round Score

At the end of the 2-hour main round, each competitor tallies up their 7 highest individual scores. The total is their overall score. If there is a tie, competitors will be ranked by the number of black problems, then the number of red problem etc completed if necessary to split the top three in each category. All problems completed should be marked on the scoresheet.

Mats:

All the problems will be protected by mats as deemed safe by the host gym. On all problems the lowest part of the climber must not exceed three metres.

 

FINAL ROUND 

The top three ranked Open Men’s and Open Women’s competitors after the main rounds will progress to the final round. If there are time constraints, less or more finalists may be included at the discretion of the Head Judge.

There will be three final sections with two problems on each, one for the Open Men’s and one for the Open Women’s. These are marked with starting and finishing holds as per the main round, except all usable holds (including screw-ons) will be marked. The Head Judge will define the colour of tags for these problems.

Each finalist will have 4 minutes to try each problem. They can have as many attempts as they want, but their current attempt is terminated at the 4 minute mark.

Each of the six problems will be drawn on a routemap and verified by the Head Routesetter. Each useable handhold will be given a number score, starting at 1, reflecting the progression of the problem. The score on each attempt on the boulder problem is to be recorded. The resulting score for each problem will be the value of the highest hold controlled in the fewest attempts. If the final hold is controlled with two hands for at least two seconds, the score will be 100.

If the hold is “Used” as per the IFSC definition below, they will score an additional 0.1 points.

e.g. Controlled hold 10, score = 10.0, Used hold 10, score = 10.1

“Use means, for the purposes of judging and scoring, that a competitor has made use of some
object/structure to:
(a) effect a progressive movement of their centre of mass or hips; and
(b) effect a movement of either or both hands toward:
(1) the next sequential handhold along the line of progression; or
(2) any other handhold further along the line of progression which has been successfully
Controlled by another competitor from the same handhold,
and the terms “Used”, “Uses” and “Using” will be interpreted in this context.”

 

The combined score is the total values of the three problems and the combined number of attempts for the three scores.

 

Any changes from these rules will be at the discretion of the Head Judge.

 

Example:

 

Competitor A

	Attempt	1	2	3	4	5	6	Score
Problem 1	Points	3	4.1	3	7.1	Top		100 in 5
Problem 2	Points	6	6	2	6.1	2	3	6.1 in 4
Problem 3	Points	Top						100 in 1

 

Competitor A’s score in the finals would be 206.1 in 10 attempts. This would beat a score of 206 in 8 attempts but would be beaten by 206.1 in 8 attempts.

 

SERIES POINTS

Series points will be allocated in all categories. The person with the highest score, based on their placing over their best 3 competitions, will be the overall series winner. Ties for all places will be allowed in each competition, including 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Points will be awarded for ties taking the average points for all placings.

For example a tie for 1^st will score 93 points (100+86) / 2

The overall series winner will be decided at the conclusion of event 4, and the series trophies awarded. If a tie exists for 1st place after this competition there will be a count back as per IFSC rules, with the highest point score and number of competitors per event used to split the competitors.

e.g. Three competitors have a series points score of 100.

Person A came first in one event, with an attendance of 100 people.

Person B came first in one event, with an attendance of 80 people.

Person C came 6^th in two events.

The series rankings would be 1^st A, 2^nd B and 3^rd C

Place	Points
1	100
2	86
3	74
4	64
5	56
6	50
7	44
8	40
9	36
10	32
11	30
12	28
13	26
14	24
15	22
16	20
17	19
18	18
19	17
20	16
21	15
22	14
23	13
24	12
25	11
26	10
27	9
28	8
29	7
30	6
31	5
32	4
33	3
34	2
35	1

 

Note: Series points and overall placing will be posted on the NiBS results page after each competition.